IWTA president Claudio Lacchio.

THE ResponsiWOOL stream for wool from sheep mulesed with pain relief in the Australian Wool Sustainability Scheme is not relevant to the customers of Italian processors, according to an industry leader.

Italy’s wool textile trade last month fully endorsed the Australian Wool Sustainability Scheme, crediting the certification program’s industry ownership, next generation traceability and clip quality integration.

Italian Wool Textile Association president Claudio Lacchio said the IWTA particularly valued that the AWSS SustainaWOOL stream (for non-mulesed wool) sets clear and measurable sustainability standards covering environmental care, animal welfare, and social responsibility.

However, although Mr Lacchio said the IWTA acknowledges and appreciates that the AWSS framework includes a stream for wool from mulesed sheep treated with pain relief — ResponsiWOOL — “this aspect is simply not relevant to our business or our customers.”

“Italian and European brands made their position clear years ago: they do not purchase mulesed wool under any circumstance.

“While we fully understand the specific challenges that some growers in certain Australian regions still face, the market reality is that brands in Europe have already moved entirely to non-mulesed wool,” he said.

When asked if, despite the preparation standards for Australian wool, its superior quality, and if  marketed under a certification system verifying high animal welfare, environmental and other sustainability standards on farm, Mr Lacchio confirmed that mulesing, even with pain relief, is a ‘deal breaker’ of greater significance to European and American brands.

“Yes it looks that way…in particular European and American brands have long required no mulesing, regardless of any other consideration.

“There are also cases, even when it comes to NM only without a proper certification, of weavers/brands in Europe asking for “non Australian origin”, to show you the extent of the issue,” Mr Lacchio said.

Mr Lacchio said the IWTA has not analysed the ResponsiWOOL program in detail, “simply because our customers stopped buying mulesed wool many years ago.”

“From our perspective, SustainaWOOL remains the relevant and credible standard for our market — one that aligns with the sustainability and traceability expectations of European luxury brands.”

However, Mr Lacchio supported a suggestion that the scientifically supported welfare benefits of using analgesic and anaesthetic products for husbandry procedures should be communicated to growers, certification bodies and brands. He also supported bringing sustainability managers of brands to Australia to visit wool properties so that real-life challenges and management solutions can be explained and the genuine welfare concern of wool growers is demonstrated, even via virtual farm tours.

“Absolutely.

“We strongly support any practice or initiative that improves animal welfare and deepens mutual understanding along the value chain,” he said.

“We fully agree that sustainability leaders from global brands should have more opportunities to engage directly with Australian growers — whether in person or virtually — to appreciate the complexity and dedication behind wool production.

“Building this bridge is essential for a more transparent and informed industry dialogue,” Mr Lacchio said.

Mr Lacchio was also asked if he believed the Australian industry could hope to successfully promote wool from sheep mulesed with pain relief to the world, or even to the Italians.

“It’s hard to say globally, but certainly not to Italian, European — and I would add American — brands,” he said.

“ResponsiWOOL may serve as a useful transitional tool in the short to medium term, helping those who still practice mulesing with pain relief to remain part of certification systems while the industry evolves.

“However, Italian and European brands have been committed to sourcing only non-mulesed wool for many years now,” Mr Lacchio said.

“The brands we work with visit Australia regularly and fully understand the growers’ challenges, but they still consider mulesing a practice they cannot be associated with.”